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“Ethnic food” is a phrase most of us have heard, possibly even recently. But what does it mean, specifically? If “ethnic” means to come from a certain national or cultural tradition, then literally all food would be ethnic food. But Tara O’Brady, the award-winning cookbook author, food writer, and proprietor of the popular blog Seven Spoons, explains that’s not the way people tend to use the phrase “ethnic food,” and she says it’s time to retire it. Because in practice what people mean when they talk about “ethnic food” is the food of non-white people, and that usage contributes to power differences and hierarchies in the food world that it’s past time to do away with.

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