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I used to avoid cooking squash, because it seemed like way too much work to cut into one. One time I bought four little kabocha squashes, and I left them sitting on the table so long everybody genuinely forgot they weren’t a centerpiece — even me! But with a better knife and a bit of practice, squash are very easy to prepare, and now I make them nearly every week during the winter. They’re healthful and tasty, and they can go in just about anything. Roasted squash is wonderful in salads, or in grain bowls, and it’s spectacular with pasta, especially in a cream sauce like this one.