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As a kid, I mistakenly called zucchinis “bikinis” — and that was pretty much the extent of my relationship with them for the past 30 years. My mother, on the other hand, could and would eat steamed zucchini for every meal of the day, which just goes to show the polarizing nature of this vegetable. Some people enjoy zucchini raw, while others need a load of butter and the threat of no dessert to choke them down.

But here’s what I’ve learned about zucchini in my past few years of adulthood and culinary experimentation: they are chameleons.

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