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Stone milling is nothing new — it’s the way flour was made for thousands of years before electricity came onto the scene — but lately, it’s having something of a renaissance. In addition to historic stone mills still functioning around the country — some of them still run by waterpower — new mills are popping up and artisan bakeries are even installing their own mills so they can grind flour on the premises.

The result? Flour is becoming as exciting an ingredient to explore as chocolate or butter. Here’s what you should know about stone-ground flours and how they’re different from the all-purpose stuff.

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