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“Biscuit-topped” is one of my favorite word combinations. In cookbooks, it is the friend I’m always delighted to run into. Oh, hi there, are you a hearty stew plush with grounding root vegetables and maybe handfuls of tender slow-cooked chicken, all hanging out under a blanket of warm biscuits? Let’s be friends.

Four years ago, I stumbled into an accidental tradition. Once the weather starts edging towards fall, the nights stretching until they brush against the late afternoon, I make the biscuit-topped tofu miso stew from The Tassajara Cookbook. The cookbook is written by Edward Espe Brown, a celebrated chef who just happens to also be a Buddhist priest.

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