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We don’t often write about buzzy new restaurants, but we couldn’t help catching a little bit of the fever around Babu Ji. The Alphabet City spot, which opened last summer, has been widely credited for shaking up the Indian food establishment with its cheeky decor and delicate, flavorful fare. Chef Jessi Singh, who hails from northern India and helms the kitchen, and his wife, Jennifer, a native of Brooklyn who runs the front of the house, are not the first to bring a lightness and playfulness to curries and chutneys — but they do it exceptionally well, from the opening bite of gol gappa, a paper-thin fritter filled with yogurt and tamarind, to the sweet kulfi finale.
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