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Every Jewish family has a different take on latkes. Some are flat and lacy, while others are thick with substantial chew. The beauty of this food is in its near inability to be bad. After all, we are talking about potatoes crisped up in fat. If you can achieve that, any recipe is sure to be delicious.

After testing five classic latke recipes, I determined the essential ingredients and have culled the cleverest techniques to bring you this very recipe. The result is a straightforward technique serving up latkes that shatter when you bite into them, revealing a creamy potato- and onion-packed pocket. This recipe is great for first-time latke makers seeking a vehicle for applesauce and sour cream, but even if you’re a latke-making expert, this recipe still might help you out with a trick or two. Here’s how to make classic latkes.

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