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One of the fondest Thanksgiving memories of my childhood was the year my mother tried to serve us a completely vegetarian Thanksgiving. We had just relocated to a new city after my mother had finished graduate school; we didn’t have friends or family to celebrate with, and I’m sure that money was tight that year. And what was the centerpiece of this event? A ham-roasted eggplant.

Picture a spiral-cut eggplant turned black from roasting with a brown-sugar glaze and served on a platter much too large for its puny size. My mother presented it so lovingly to the table, with the same flair as the real deal. At the same time, my brother and I promptly burst into uncontrollable fits of laughter, and our exhausted mother plopped down and joined in on the guffaws. No one touched the eggplant ham and the three of us filled up on sides, gathered around the tiny table in our new rental apartment.

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