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Every year after Thanksgiving dinner, when the guests are gone and we’re scrubbing the last of the dishes, my family and I go over the meal in detail. What did we all scoop up seconds of, and what did we push to the sides of our plates? What would we make again next year, and what needs to go back to the drawing board?

At this point we’ve pretty much got the turkey (grilled), mashed potatoes (garlicky), and dinner rolls on lock. But every year, we’re not entirely sold on our sweet potato recipe, the vegetable side dish, and, most importantly, the stuffing. Why can’t we seem to master the perfect stuffing?

Honestly, I think we play it too safe. Switching to cornbread is too sharp of a pivot, and with so many vegetarians in our family, sausage is out of the question. But unlike the mashed potatoes and the dinner rolls, it feels like stuffing is a place where we can have a little fun.

That’s why this year I’m proposing a wild mushroom stuffing, which I’m confident will please both the stuffing purists (there’s still celery and parsley and thyme!) and the adventurous eaters alike. It’s so good, you won’t want to wait until Thanksgiving to eat it.

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