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When I wasn’t devouring Hot Pockets while watching MTV after high school, my go-to meal was salad: Iceberg lettuce smothered in neon-orange French dressing, topped with Bacon, cheese, and store-bought croutons. Occasionally I threw a tomato or cucumber on top as a garnish.

Then in 1990, I spent a summer living with a family in France. Fresh fruits and veggies, more sweet and flavorful than I experienced at home, ruled the table. Beans from the garden were blanched and topped with a dollop of high-fat butter and herbs, while plums were quickly transformed into sweet galettes. It was easy to get used to the little culinary luxuries of everyday French eating.

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