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Au revoir, Paris! Ann Mah takes us off the tourist path on a culinary tour of France’s favorite regional foods.

The name translates literally to “flame cake,” but flammekueche is neither a cake, nor is it on fire. Instead, it’s a cross between a savory tart and a pizza, a thin sheet of unleavened dough spread generously with crème fraîche, and sprinkled with slivered onions and bacon. The result is a study of contrasts: crisp-chewy crust, tangy cream, and nuggets of salty, smoky pork.

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