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This recipe for German-style cheesecake is a far cry from the American, denser-than-dense version — it’s more like a lofty lemon soufflé crossed with a Dutch baby. I prefer this tender filling made with Quark, a European farmers cheese, but if you can’t find quark, either Greek yogurt or sour cream will work. Barely sweetened and loaded with lemon zest, a square of this cake will dance with upbeat flavors on the tongue rather than hit you over the head with heaviness.

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