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What I love about summer is the fruit. There are peaches and plums for pies, nectarines for dribbling down your chin, apricots for tarts, cherries for snacks, and all sorts of berries for breakfast — plus other melons, like cantaloupe and honeydew, to wrap ham around. But what other fruit offers a crunchy snack, a juice for drinking (with or without a boozy booster), seeds for spitting contests, and a big round shape for greasing and throwing around the pool, lake, or ocean (have you played greased pig yet this summer)?

It’s the watermelon. When it’s good, it’s really good, and needs little else to completely satisfy a craving for a cool, sweet treat.

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